Buttonhole-sewing machine.



No. 684,24l.

(Nollodei.)

Patented Oct. 8, I90I. G. S. HILL.

'BUT'TUNHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Appleation led Apr. 11, 1898.)

8 Sheets-Sheet I.

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No. 684,24l. Patented Oct. 8, I9DI. G. S.V HILL.

BUTTONHDLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Apr. 11, 189B.) (No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 2.

i l l WTNEESEE: INVENTUR: ML/j y a s. M

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N0. 684,24I. Patnted U01. 8, I90I. G. S. HILL.

BUTTDIIHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Appumion :upd Ayr. 11, 189s.)

8 Sheets-Shed 3.

(No Model.)

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No. 684,24l. Patented oet. 8, 190|.

G s. HILL. Y

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Apputin'n med Apr. 11,l 189s.)

8 Sheets-Sheet 4.

(No Model.)

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No. 684,24I. A

Q 3 HILL Patented Oct. 8, |90| BUTTUNHOLE sEwms MACHINE.

(Applicatan led Apr. 11, 189B.) (No Model.)

8 Sheets-Sheet 5.

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Patented oct. a, lem.

No. 684,24l.

G. s. HILL. BUTTUNHOLE SEWING IACHINE.

(Application led Apr. 11, 1898.)

8 Sheets-Sheet 6.

(No Model.)

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no.A $84,241:. Patented out. a, lem. G. s. HILL.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application ld Apr. 11, 189B.)

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No. 684,24l. Patented Oct. 8, I90I.

G. S. HILL.

BUTTONHULE SEWING IACHIIE.

(Application med Apr. 11, 189e.) Y (No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 8.

Q/ WF1-A155555: Y NVENTCIRI a o? /l /Zwrwwd UNITED STATES PATENT OFFIC.

GEORGE S. HILL, OF HAVERHILL, MASSAOHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO JOHN J. SULLIVAN, OF IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 684,241, dated October 8, 1901.

Application filed April l1, 1898.

To @ZZ wwnt it may concern:

Beit known that I, GEORGE S. HILL, of Haverhill, in the county of Essex and State ofv Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to machines for sewing buttonholes, and has for its object to proio vide certainimprovementsin the same whereby machines of this class are greatly simplified in construction and rendered more highly efcient in operation.

To these ends the invention consists of a I5 buttonholesewing machine possessingcertain features of construction and relative arrangement of parts, all as hereinafter described in connection with the embodiment of the invention illustrated upon the drawings, the

zo particular features of novelty being pointed out in the claims hereunto annexed.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters marked thereon, forming a part of this specification, the same 2 5 letters designating the same parts or features, as the case may be, wherever they occur.

Of the drawings, Figure 1 represents in full elevation a buttonhole-sewing machine embodying the invention, the bed and bed-plate 3o being broken away to'show the parts beneath the said plate. Fig. 2 represents a rear elevation of the same, the bed and bed-plate being likewise broken away in this view. Fig. 3 represents a front elevation with the bedplate raised into vertical position to show the parts mounted therebeneath. Fig. 4 represents a machine partially in plan view and partially in section. In this view the bedplate is broken away to the right of the tur- 4o ret, so as to show the mechanism for transmitting movement to the clamp-carrier and to the mechanism for partially rotating or oscillating the upper and the under needle. Fig. 5 represents an end view of the machine,

partially in section. Fig. 6 represents asection through the turret.` Fig. 7 represents a horizontal section through the hanging arm. Fig. S represents a transverse section through the machine 'on the line 8 8 of Fig. 1. Fig. 9

5o represents in sectional view the power transmit-ter and the devices which intermittently saai No. rmtl. (No man.)

rotate the same. Fig. 10 represents in sec; tional view the turret, the under needle and the mechanism for operating the same being shown in side elevation. Fig. 1l is a similar view of the same parts, but showing the anvil or cutter-block in position to receive the cutter which is depressed. Fig. 12 is a sec'- tional View on the line 12 12 of Fig. 13. Fig. 13 represents a plan view of the turret and the parts therein mounted. Fig. 14 represents in detail the anvil or cutter-block and the throat-plate, together with the parts upon which they are mounted. Fig. 15 represents in plan view the clamps. Fig. 1G represents in section the clamps and the device for spreading them, being a section Qn the line 16 16 of Fig. l5. Figs. 17 and 18 represent the device for spreading the clamps. .Figs 19 and 2O represent in perspective view the cutter for cutting the needle-thread after the last stitch has been taken. Fig. 21, on Sheet 1 of the drawings, represents in sectional detail the automatic stop. Fig. 22 shows the hooked link which controls the automatic stop.

Referring to the drawings, in the embodiment of the invention therein shown and selected for the purpose of illustration the base A, the bed-plate A', hinged thereto, and the overhanging arm A2 may be of any preferred construction, my invention not relating to these parts, but to the mechanism which I shall subsequently describe as being supported thereby.

Mounted in suitable bearings in the overhauging arm A2 is the main shaft a, from which power is imparted to the upper and the under needles and mechanism for partially rotating or oscillating the same. Upon the rear end of the shaft is mounted a loose pulley a and a fast pulley a2,with either of which thebelt a3 may be engaged. Loosely mounted upon the shaft between the pulleys and the arm A2 is an automatic stop comprising the box a, to which is attached a laterally-projecting arm a5,with guide-pins a6 lying on either side of the belt a3, whereby when the box is shifted longitudinally ofthe shaft the belt is moved from one of the pulleys to the other one. The said box is provided with a hub a7, which projects into an aperture in an arm d8, depending from the shaft and which is movable in one direction relatively to the box d4. A coiled spring a9, arranged in a circular groove in the box a4, is interposed between the said box and the depending arm as, whereby the arm may be swung rearwardly in Figs. l and 2l against the pressure of the spring.

Arranged in an aperture extending longitudinally through the arm a8 is a tubular boltor pin am, having on its lower end a flange abutting against the end of the arm as and havingits upper end projected from the aperture in the said arm. A cap ci is threaded upon the end of the arm as, and within the bolt d10 is a spring am, bearing against said cap du. The fast pulley a2 is provided with a cam als, having a socket to receive the end of the bolt d10. The box a4 is secured to the end of a bar @14, mounted to slide in bearings VA3 A4 in the overhanging arm. A coiled spring e is placed around the bar, its one end abutting against the bearing A3 and its `other end abutting against a block clsecured upon the bar, whereby the bar is held under a spring-pressure, as shown in Fig. 2, with the bolt d10 in position to enter the socket in the cam am of the fast pulley d2. When the bar a is withdrawn to disengage the bolt from the fast pulley, the belt a3 is shifted from the loose pulley to the fast pulley a2 and the shaft a is rotated; but when the bar @14 is moved in the opposite direction the belt a3 is shifted to the loose pulley ct and the bolt ctw is brought into the position toenter the socket of the cam a13 and stop the rotation of the shaft a. The spring a9, interposed between the arm as and the box a4,

cushions the shaft a in its stoppage, so as to.

prevent danger to the parts by a sudden jar.

In order to operate the belt-shifting device and the automatic stop, I provide means which I shall hereinafter describe.

On its front end the shaft ci is provided with a crank b, connected by a pitinan b to the needle-bar b2, which reciprocates in bearings on the end of the overhanging ar1nA2. This bar is hollow, as is ordinarily the case, and is provided with an loffset-needle, which I term the upper needle b3. The thread passes through the needle-bar to the needle b3 and is carried through the work at a short distance from the edge of the buttonholeslit, as I shall subsequently explain. The thread is drawn from a spool, (not shown,) mounted at any convenient place, and is passed through 'a tension device consisting of a stationary abutment c, a spring-pressed disk c', mounted upon a stud c2, having a knob c3 on its upper end and passed down into the abutment c. From thence the thread passes through the take-up arm or lever c4, from which it passes directly to the needlebar b2. The -take-up lever c4 is pivoted at c5 to the rear side of the Voverhanging arm a2 and is provided with a stud c6, projecting into the groove ci in a cam cs, secured upon the main shaft ct. The said main shaft a is provided with a crank a, from which a connecting-rod d extends to a crank-arm d upon the end of the lower needle-driving shaft cl2. As

the shaft a rotates it imparts an oscillatory Y or rocking movement to the shaft d2, as will be readily understood. From this shaft power Y bearing or bracket A5, depending from the bed-plate. It is provided with a ange eat its upper end, resting upon the walls of the bearing, and to its lower end is secured a plate e2, having attached to its central portion a hollow pinion e3, as shown in Figs. 10, 11, and 12, for a purpose to be subsequently set forth. The under needle et, which is arranged to project through the slit in the buttonhole, is mounted in a needle-carrier e5, consisting of an arm swinging upon a pin e6, supported in bearings c7, afforded by the turret. The axis of the pin e6 is inclined relatively to the top plane of the turret, as shown in Fig. 12, whereby the needle e4 is inclined from the Vvertical and moves in a plane which intersecured the ball member 612 of a balland- I socket connection, the socket 613 being upon the end of a link e, secured-to an arm 626 upon the end of the shaft d2. The connection between the link 614 and the arm 626 is likewise a ball and socket.

Now it will be seen' from the descriptionV thus far given that if the shaft d2 be rocked or oscillated its movement will be communi- 9o 95 Vif" IOVO- cated tothe needle e4 through the medium ofY Y n the'arm @26, the link 614, the toggle-levers es e9, and the needle-carrier e5. asmuch as the needle e4 is inclined from the vertical, the toggle-levers es e9 are likewise inclined, and the pivot-studs e and ew are correspondingly inclined from the horizontal. As previously stated, the bell-crank lever, composed of the lever e, having the arm cu, constitutes, together with the link es, a toggle, so that when this toggle is straight the needle e4 will be at its highest point. These parts are thus constructed in order to carry the knuckle or joint 616 still farther to the left, toa position corresponding to the position it occupies to the right rin Fig. l0 after after it has passed a straight line. Supposing the toggle to be straight, then as the knuckle moves to the left the needle e4 will Y Of course, in- .Y Y Y drop or dip, thereby loosening its thread to form a loop through which the upper needle @3 may pass. The knuckle then returns to its straight position and carries the needle to its highest point, and as the knuckle continues its movement it brings the needle to its lowest point. It will thus be seen that the lower needle is not only carried through the buttonhole-slit, but is also given a dip for the purpose stated.

e indicates an arm pivoted at one end to the turret. The free end of this arm (see Figs. l2 and 13) is formed as a bearing els, in which is loosely arranged the spindle el, to the upper end of which is secured a looper 620.

@21 indicates an arm pivoted at one end to the turret, and @22 indicates a link pivoted at one end in ears in the arm @21 and at its other end is secured to the spindle el.

623 indicates a vertical lip rising from the arm @21, to which is secured a ball e2", secured in a socket c25 in the end of a link @26, connecting the lip @23 with the needle-carrier c5. By this construction it will be seen that the looper is given a movement of oscillation, and likewise a movement of rotation.

When the upper and under needle actuatingmechanisms are operated,the under needle projects through the slit of the buttonhole and drops or dips to form a loop through which the upper needle descends. under needle is withdrawn, and the looper engages the loop of the upper needle and opens it, so that when the under needle again rises it enters the loop of the upper needle, after which the upper needle rises and again descends through the loop of the under thread. The upper needle penetrates the work at a short distance from the slit, while, as stated, the under needle projects through the slit. The needle-bar h2 and the turret e are both arranged to turn in suitable bearings, and the needle b3 is offset or deiiected from a right line, as previously stated, in order that when the needle-bar is rotated or oscillated it may assume the proper relation with respect to the other members, as hereinbefore described; but even t-hough the upper and lower sewing mechanisms are rotated the needles remain at an inclination to each other and are so arranged that they may pass through the fabric in a line intersecting the slit, at a right angle thereto, whereby when the sew-ing is stopped the upper and the lower threads are substantially opposite each other. In other words, the plane of thepath of movement of the under needle intersects the line of movement ofthe upperneedle at the plane of-the work.

To accomplish the partial rotation of the upper and the under needle, I provide the following devices: As I have previously stated, the turret is provided with a pinion e3, and by examining Fig. '/'it will be seen that upon the needle-bar h2 is secured a similar pinion A vertical shaft f is projected through the bed-plate A', being supported in bearings Then the,

afforded by the bed-plate and by the overhanging arm, as shown in Fig. 5, and upon this shaft are secured two internally-toothed segments f 2 f3, of the configuration illustrated in Fig. 3. The segment f2 intermeshes with the pinion f on the needle-bar, and the segment f3 intermeshes with and drives the pinion e3 on the turret e. A strong spring frt is coiled about the shaft f, one end being secured thereto through the collar f5, and the other end being attached by the stud]CG to the bed-plate A'.

Under normal conditions the spiral spring holds the parts in the positions illustratedY in Figs. 3 and 4; but when the sewing has progressed far enough for the needles to be partially rotated the shaft f is rocked to swing the segments f2 f3 about their axes and accomplish the rotation of the said needles.

Secured upon the shaft f', below the bedplate, is an arm f7, having on its end a roller f8, with which a wiper g on a camwheel g may engage, these parts being best shown in Fig. 3. The wi per gis arranged eccentrically of the cam g', so that the rotatory movement of the needles is properly timed, and when that movement is completed an L-shaped latch r, pivoted upon a stud on the under side of the bed-plate and under the pressure ot' aV spring r2, enters a notch r in the turret and holds it against the action of the spring f4 until it is tripped.

The cam-wheel g is secured upon a studshaft g2, depending from the bed-plate A', and secured upon its hub gs is a disk g4. (Shown in dotted lines in Figs. 4 and 9.) This disk g4 is provided with a series of notches or sockets g5, in which are placed loose rolls Q6, bearing against springs g7, placed in said sockets. A ring g8 surrounds the periphery of the disk g4 and rests on a flange thereon, being provided with a top plate g, as shown in Fig. l, to hold the rolls g6 in place. The ring g8, the disk g4, and the rolls g6 constitute frictionclutch mechanism for imparting a step-bystep movement to the cam, this being accomplished by oscillating the member g8. The said member or ring g8 has an outwardly-projecting arm g10,connected by a ball-and-socket joint with a link gu, having its rear endconnected to an arm gw, extending upwardly from the shaft cl2.

Vhen the machine is set in motion, power is imparted from the main driving-shaft to the shaft d2, and as the latter is oscillated or rocked the cam-wheel g' is rotated withY a step-by-step movement to eect the partial rotation of the upper and under needles at the proper time. From this cam-wheel gf power is transmitted to Various parts of the machine to accomplish various functions, it being provided with a cam projection r3 to engage the end of the latch r to release the turret when the stitching is completed. One of the offices performed by the cam is the movement of the clamping device, which I shall now proceed to describe,

IIO

The clamp-carrier consists of a block 71, as shown in Fig. 4, to which are secured brackets 7L 7L, whichv are pivoted upon the said block and to which the upper and lower members of each clamp are secured. A stud h2 passes through each bracket and forms the pivot around which it may swing. The members of each clamp comprise an under clamping-bar 7b3, secured to the bracket 7t, and upper clamping-bar 7L1,secured upon a boss or lug 7t5, arising from the said bracket. On its end each upper clamp-bar 71,1 is provided with a pivotal presser-foot 7L, having an inwardlycurved heel h1', the heels of the two presserfeet being almost contiguous, as shown in Fig. 15. The upper clamp-bars 71.4 are made of spring metal, whereby by their own resiliency they clamp the work against the lower clamping-bars. One of the upper clampingbars h4 is provided with a cross-bar 72,8, which projects under the top cross-bar h1 of thev other clamp and causes it to rise therewith when it is lifted. To raise the upper bars of the clamps, a pin 7L is passed through the turret, being supported in a sleeve 7L10, having its lower end secured in the plate e2, before referred to, these parts being shown in Fig. 12. When the turret is in the proper position, the pin 71,9 is below the cross-bar 7t8 and also registers with apin 7L11, mounted upon the end of an arm 7112, secured to a sleeve 71,13, loosely mounted on the shaft cl2. The pin h11 is on a block 7L, pivoted in an ear in the arm 7L12, and a spring 7L15 in a socket in the said arm bears against the block 7114, so as to hold the pin 71,11 in its proper position, althoughthe latter is free to swing relatively to the arm when the arm is raised and the pin enters the aperture in the sleeve 7L10 as it forces the pin hg upwardly. The sleeve 72,13 is provided with a rearwardly-extending arm 7t16, connected by a link 7t17 with a treadle, (not showin) so that upon depressing the treadle the sleeve is rocked and the pin hf is lifted to raise the upper bars of the clamp and permit the work to be moved. The sleeve may be rocked, however, by any other mechanism that may be desired.

To eiect the movement of' the clamp-carrier, I em ploy the following devices: The arm 17 is pivoted to a stud f', projecting downwardly from the bed-plate at the left end thereof in the rear of the shaft d2. It is formed near its free end into a cylindrical bearingbracket t2 to receive a pintle i3, having a frustoconical or daring upper end i4, from which the threaded portion projects into an aperture in the clamp carrier or block 7L. The lower end of the pintle is reduced and threaded to receive a conical bearing-sleeve 't5 and a lock-nut fit1. The ends of the bracket i2 are flared to receive the said cones, whereby I provide for the taking up of wear of any of the parts through the adjustment of the cones. The arm t' is projected a short distance beyond the bearing-bracket t2 and is slotted, as at i7, to receive a stud is, passed through the slotted end of a bell-crank lever i, fnlcrumed upon a stud 10, depending from the bed-plate A'.

By reason of the levers being connectedV by the stud passed through the socket theV throw of the lever t, and consequently of -f the clamp-carrier, may be varied to suit the length of thebuttonholeslit. The arm i Y Y and the arm i9 of the bell-crank lever are substantially in alinement with each other, Y i n,

as seen in plan, Fig. 3. The other arm i12 on the bell-crank t is provided with a trun-V dle 1113, lying in a cam-slot in the cam-wheel g', whereby as the cam rotates the belliV crank lever is oscillated to swing the arm about its axis and effect the forward-and-Y backward movement of the clamp-carrier.

This clamprarrier being secured to the pini tle is is thus pivotally supported upon the end of the arm t' and is free to swing about the axis of the same. Therefore in order to effect sidewise movement of the front ends of the clamps the block h is provided with an arm 11, having on its end a trundle projecting into a cam-slot Q15 in the cam-wheel g. The

parts are so timed that the forward ends of the clamps are moved in a path almost simi-1Y Y Y lar in shape to the edges of the buttonhole-Y slit.

The spreading of the clamps is elected by means of the devices illustrated more parhollow, as shown, and surrounding the post Secured to Y' is a sleeve j', which is conical near its lower 'Y noVVV When the endV 16, the springj1 forces the cap upward andV Y Y raises the spreading-sleeve j; but when the Y' end of the lever js is depressedA the cap is its forced down and the conical portion jg of the sleeve wedges between the lower clamp-bars h3 and swings each pair of clam p-bars about Y its pivot to spread their outer ends. The spreading-sleeve may be adjusted to vary the spread of the clamp-bars, after which it is locked by a nutjg.

To accomplish the spreading of the'clampe 'Y Y' Y bars automatically, the lever je is provided f with a pin 310,' projecting into a slot j11 in the end of a bell-crank leverj12 n., secured to an arm 313, pivoted at j to the side of the over-V ,Y

hanging arm a2, the arm n projecting intoa slot in the bar Q11. Connected to the end of the arm L713 by a ball-and-socket joint is a link 7c, which projects downward through the bedplate a and is provided on its end with a barb or hook 7c.

This hooked link 7c proi jects through a slot in the end of a two-armed leverZZ, pivoted between its ends uponashaft in, arranged parallel to the cutter-shaft @Z2 in the rear thereof. The leveris provided with a hub fast upon the shaft m, so that when it is rocked or tilted the shaft is rocked to accomplish a function to be subsequently set forth. Arranged longitudinally in the arm Z is a socket to receive a spring-pressed stud Z2, Fig. 22, which tends to throw the link k forward, so that its barb or hook will engage the end of the lever Z. Pivoted to the opposite edd Z of the lever is a rod Z3, which hangs loosely into a socket in the end of a reciproeating bar Z4, driven by the usual transmittershaft, (not shown,) from which movement is transmitted to the main driving-shaft of the machine through the belt before described. This transmittenshaft is indicated at Z5, and it reciprocates the tubular bar Z4 through the medium of a crank Z6, eccentric, or any other device that may be desirable. Normally the bar Z4 reciprocateswithout eectinganymovement of the bar Z3 and the lever Z Z, the rear end of the latter being normally raised by a strong spring Z, as shown in Figs. 6 and 22. ln order' to temporarily connect the reciprocating part Z'l and the bar Z3, a latch ZT is pivoted to the pintle ZS, (which connects the bar Z3 with the end of the lever Z,) and the hooked end of the latch is adapted to enter a notch Z" in the tubular bar Z4 when the latter is in its highest position, as shown in Fig. S. Normally the latch ZT is held out of the notch by a dog Zw, pivoted in an ear on the bar Z3. A dog Z11 is pivoted upon the lever h1@ and is held against a stud Z, projecting out from the side thereof, by a spring Z13, also resting against theshaft m. Vhen the main treadle is depressed to draw the lever Ztldownward, the pawl Z11 slides by the end of the dog ZIO; but when the lever Ztlisl raised bythe spring upon removing the foot from the treadle the dog or pawl Z11 engages the cnd of the dog Z10 and tilts it,throwing it out of the way ofthe vlatch ZT, which upon the next reciprocation of the bar Z*l immediately enters the notch Z9, and a single reciprocation is imparted to the lever Z by the bar Z4. As the bar Z3 rises after having been once depressed the end of the dog ZIO strikes against the end of the pawl Zl1 and is thrown back into its normal position to disengage the latch ZT from the notch Z, the dog Z11 being held from vertical movement by reason of its pressing against the shaft m, as shown in Fig. 8. When the front end of the lever Z Z was raised, the lower end of the link Zt' entered the aperture therein, so that when the front end of the said lever Z Z is again depressed it draws down with it the hooked link Ze and swings the arm j about its stud jl() to depress the arm jB and spread the clamp, it continuing to hold thelink depressed until a tripping device, consisting of a bellcrank lever s, pivoted on the stud 10, is actuated by a projection s on the cam g to disengage the link from the catch or lever Z. The downward movement of the arm jf causes the starting of the machine, for secured to the arm jg is the arm n, the upper end of which was previously described as projecting into a slot in the bar am, whereby when the arm the automatic stop is thrown out of engagement with the cam (L13 and the belt is shifted from the loose pulley a' to the fast pulley a2. When the lever Z is drawn downward by the bar Z4, so as to rock the shaft m to cut a buttonhole-slit, the cutter is actuated, as I shall now proceed to describe.

The cutter for cutting the buttonhole-slit consists of a knife o, mounted upon the end of a two-armed lever o 02, pivoted by a pintie o3 between two ears extending downward from the bed of the machine, the arm o projecting through an aperture in the bed-plate. The end of the arm o2 is connected by a link ou1 with an arm o5, secured upon the shaft m, before referred to. Hence when the shaft m is rocked through the medium of the lever Z the arm o5 and the link o4 operate as a toggle to lift the end of the arm o2 and throw the knife downward against the cutter-block or anvilp. This anvil or cutter-block p is secured to or formed upon a disk p, which has a semicylindrical sleeve-like portion p2 surrounding a tubular bracket p3, formed on the turret e. A shaft p4 is journaled in the bracket, and the disk p' is secured to its end by a screw p5. A spring having one end connected to a pin p6, extending out from the disk p', and having its other end connected to a pin 197, projecting inward from the turret, tends to normally hold the anvil out of the path of the knife and to hold a throatplate p8 in the position shown in Fig. l0, this throat-plate being likewise attached to the disk p and the shaft p4. In order, therefore, to partially rotate the shaft p4, so as to throw the throat-plate out of position and bring the anvil into its operative position, I form the' pin 71.9 (which was previously described as opjs is drawn downward to spread the clamps IOO IIO

erating to move the top bars of the workclamp) with an offset cam or projection p?, 'which'when the pin h" is raised engages the stud p6 and rocks the shaft p4 intothe position shown in Fig. ll. To hold the shaft in this position when the pin 719 descends, Iprovide the two-armed pawl 19101911, which is pivoted upon a stud p12, projecting from the inner wall of the turret. Upon the end of the arm p10 is a dog p17, and connected thereto is a spring 7913, having its other end secured to a stud p14, projecting inward from the turret. This spring operates to draw the pawl or dog p17 inward and also to throw the end of the arm p11 toward the shaft p4, so as to slip under the end of a rib p15, projecting out from the disk p. Consequently when the-pin 71,9 is raised and the shaft p is rocked the arm p11 of the two-armed pawl slips under the end of the rib p15 and holds the anvilin operative position. As soon as the cutter has descendthe hooked end of the pawl or dog, and consequently when the cutter rises the hook p16 draws the pawl p12 upwardly and swings the end of the arm p11 out from engagement with the rib p15, whereupon the spring p5 immediately returns the anvil to its inoperative position and carries the throat-plate into proper position.

The throat-plate remains uppermost during all of the time that the stitching operation is being performed, and when the machine is stopped and the foot-treadle is depressed to open the work-clamp and to throw the anvil into position for the next cutting operation a thread-cutter is actuated to cut the loop of the upper needle-thread, which at this time remains upon the looper. The thread-cutter consists of a blade q, having its lower end pivoted upon a stud q', projecting out from a lug qgon the stationary bracket in which the shaft p4 is mounted. It is curved, as shown, at its free end, so that if it be swung to the right the said end will enter the loop and the latter will be severed. To accomplish this movement of the blade, it is slotted, as shown at g3, anda pin is passed through the slot into the disk p.

Vhen the treadle is depressed and the shaft p4 is rocked to throw the anvil into position, the cutting-blade is swung upon its pivot into the loop to cut the same. Then when the anvil is returned to its normal inoperative position the cutter-blade is swung back out of the way of the needle while the next stitching operation takes place.

The operation of the machine is as follows: Assuming that a buttonhole has been out and the stitching operation has just been completed and the machine has stopped auto-V -movement of the lever 71.16 forces the pin 719 upwardly from the sleeve 71,10 in the turret and lifts the top bars h4 of the Work-clamps. The' cam or projection pf on the pin Zz engages the stud p6 of the disk p and throws the anvil into position to receive the buttonhole-cutter. As soon as the anvil reaches its proper position the pawl p11 slips under the end of the rib p15, as previously described. As the anvil swings into position the thread-cutter q is operated to enter the loop of the last needlestitch of the previous buttonhole, which is held open by the looper, and sever the same. While the clamp-bars are raised the operator moves the work along underneath the clamp to place it in position for the next buttonhole, and as he removes his foot from the treadle and permits the bar hw to swing upwardly the dog Z11 engages the dog Z12 and throwing it out of its normal position permits the latch Z7 to drop into the notch Z9 in the reciprocating bar Z* the next time it rises. Im-

mediately upon the engagement of the latch with the bar Z the lever Z is rocked, so that its free end engages the hooked link 7c. As the shaft m is being rocked the toggle ou1 05 swings the cutter-bar about the stud o3 to *Y plate into its normal position, as shown in Fig. 10. draws the link k downward and swings the bell-crank jf ln about its stud jm. This causes two things to happen: first, the arm js is forced downward to cause the spreading of Y,

The movement of the lever Z also Y the work-clamps, which immediately closed Y upon the work when the foot was raised from Y .907 Y o turned to its normal position, and, second, it Y the treadle and the pin 71.9 in the turret rethrows the automatic stop out of engagement with the fast pulley and shifts the belt a? thereto from the loose pulley. The rear endY of the lever is held in its raised position bya strong spring, as previously described, so that the sewing operation immediately takes place and continues until the link 7c is released from the lever. belt from the loose to the fast pulley causes The shifting of the Y roo the rotation of the main shaftAand the con- Y sequent reciprocation of the needles and the Y looper. carrier moves backwardly and slightly laterally until the stitching is complete almost the length of one edge of the buttonhole-slit.

der to prevent the return of the turret and- As the sewing progresses the clamp- Then IIS Y the upper needle after having been partially Y Y rotated, a latch-bar is pivoted upon the under side of the base-plate and enters a notch in the turret. completed, the cam projection s' on the camwheel engages a bell-crank lever s, pivoted upon the stud 9, and swings it suiciently to cause it to engage the hooked end Zt of Ythe link 7c and disengage it from the lever Z. The

Then the last stitch is almostV link immediately rises, and the automatic f stop is forced by the spring 0.15 into position Y.

to stop the rotation of the needle-shaft at the same time the lever js is raised, and the clamps are permitted to approach eachother.

After a moment of time a cam r' on the cam-V wheel g engages the latch r and forces it from engagement with the turret, whereuponV Y 'Y y 8o the shaft p4 to rotate and swing the throat- Y Y the turret and the upper needle are returned to their original positions. rlhis completes one entire cycle of operations of the machine.

Having thus explained the nature of the invention and described a way of constructing and using the same, though without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it maybe made or all of the modes of its use, I declare that what I claim isl. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism; a cutter for severing the thread; a movable throat-plate; means for moving the throat-plate into and out of operative position; and mediate connections between the throat-plate and the cutter, whereby the cutter is actuated to cut the thread as the throat-plate is moved out of operative position.

2. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism; a cutter for severing the thread; a movable throat-plate; a carrier for the throat-plate; means for moving the throat-plate into and out of operative position, and connections between said carrier and said cutter whereby the latter is actuated by the former.

3. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a critter for severing the thread, a buttonhole-cutter, an anvil, a carrier therefor, means for .moving said anvil into and out of operative position, and mediate connections between said threadcutter and said carrier, whereby the former is actuated by the latter.

4. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter for severing the thread, a buttonhole-cutter, an anvil, means for moving said anvil into and out of operative position, including a carrier on which said anvil is mounted, and a pinand-slot connection between said thread-cutter and said carrier whereby one is actuated by the other.

A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter for severing the thread, a buttonhole-cutter, an anvil, a throat-plate, a carrier for saidanvil and throat-plate, means for actuating said carrier to move either said th roat-plate or said anvil into operative position, and connections between said carrier and said thread-cutter, forca-using the operation of the thread-cutter.

6. A buttonhole-sewing machine, comprising stitch-forming mechanism including a movable throat-plate, a turret on which a portion of said stitch forming mechanism is mounted, a cutter for severing a thread supported by said turret, a carrier for the throatplate mechanism for moving said carrier and thereby the throat-plate for the purpose described, and mediate connect-ions between said throat-plate and said cutter, whereby said cutter is actuated by said throat-plate.

7. A buttonhole-sewing machine, comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a turret on which a portion of said mechanism is mounted, a cutter pivotally mounted on the turret for severing the thread, and means including a pin carried by said turret for swinging said cutter about its fulcruin or pivot to cause it to sever the thread.

S. A vbuttonhole-sewing machine including a lower needle, and complemental stitchforming mechanism including an upper needle, a turret held against bodily lateral movement, means for imparting a rotatory Inovement to said upper needle and said turret, and a carrier for said lower needle pivotally mounted on said turret and movable in a plane intersecting the path of the upper needle.

9. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising an upper needle, mechanism for actuating it, a lower needle, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said upper needle and said turret, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, and a toggle mounted on said turret for actuating said carrier, said carrier, toggle and lower needle being inclined with respect to said upper needle.

lO. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism including a turret, means for actuating said turret to cause the formation of stitches around thc end of a buttonhole, a work-clamp, and means of which a part is carried by the turret for opening said clamp.

ll. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism including a turret, means for actuating said turret to cause the formation of stitches around the end of a buttonhole, a work-clamp, a device carried by said turret for opening said clamp, and manually-operated mechanism for actuating said device.

l2. A` buttonhole-sewiug machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism including a turret, means for actuating said turret to cause the formation of stitches around the end of a buttonhole, a work-clamp comprising two normally spring-closed jaws, means for separating said jaws, and means carried by said turret for opening said jaws.

13. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a bed-plate, a bu'ttonhole-cutter, a work-clamp, a continuously-rotating shaft, j ournaled independently of the bed-plate, a rock-shaft journaled upon said bed-plate, toggle connections between said rock-shaft and said rotating shaft, and means for intermittingly connecting said shafts to cause the simultaneous operation of the cutter and the clamps.

14. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitching mechanism including a rotary turret, a buttonhole-cutter, an anvil or cut-Y ter-block journaled upon the turret and lying w normally in an inoperative position, manually-operated means for moving said anvil into operative position, and automaticallyactuated mechanism for operating said cutter;

l5. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitching mechanism including a rotary turret, a buttonhole-cutter, an anvil or cutter-block j ournaled upon the turret and lying normally in an inoperative position, manually-operated means for moving said anvil into operative position and mechanism operated automatically to actuate the cutter and return the anvil to its inoperative position.

16. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprisingstitch-forming mechanism includingaturret and means for rotating said turret, a buttonhole-cutter, a spring-held anvil pivotally mounted on said turret and lying normally in an inoperative position, manually-operated means for moving the anvil into operative position, devices for latching said anvil in the last-said position, and means carried by the cutter for causing the anvil to be returned to inoperative position.

17. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism including a turret, a buttonhole-cutter, automatic devices for actuating the cutter, an anvil or cutter-block pivotally supported on said turret and lying normally in an inoperative position, and manually-operated means for causing the movement of said anvil into operative position.

18. Abu ttonhole-sewing machine, comprising stitch-forming mechanism including' a turret, a cutter, an anvil pivotally mounted on said turret, a continuously-rotating shaft, manually-controlled devices for moving said anvil into and out of operative position, cutter-actuating devices, and mechanism automatically controlled by said manually-controlled devices, for connecting said cutteractuating devices with said shaft, whereby the anvil is first moved into position and the cutter is then actuated.

19. Abuttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitching mechanism including a rotary turret, a throat-plate, an anvil, a spring-tensioned rock-shaft on said turret for supporting said plate and said anvil, and means whereby said shaft may be moved manually in one direction.

20. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising a turret, a throat-plate, an anvil, a man ually-actuated device supporting said plate and said anvil and mounted pivotally on said turret, and mechanism for rocking said device to move the anvil into operative position.

21. Abuttonhole-sewing machine comprising a throat-plate, an anvil, a rocking device supporting said plate and said anvil, and a sprin g for holding said device with the throatplate in position, and manuallyoperated mechanism for rocking said device to mov 22. Abuttonhole-sewing machine comprising a throat-plate,`an anvil, a rocking device supporting said plate and said anvil, aspring for holding said device with the throat-plate in position, manually operated mechanismY Y fol' TOCkDg ASaid device to move the anvil intoV 65'.V

operative position, a lock to hold the said device in the last-said position, and automatic-jY ally-acting means for disengaging the Ylock 'V Y from the rocking device to permit the spring to return the throat-plate to operative position. .L :77' l 23. A buttonhole-sewiug machine comprising a stitch-forming mechanism, including an'V upper needle and an under needle, a main' rotary shaft for reciprocating said needles,

and mechanism for oscillating said needles, 752' driven from said main rotary shaft, said means for oscillating said needles includingV pinions connected to said needles, internallytoothed gears meshing with said pinions, a rock-shaft to which said gears are secured, mechanism operated automatically to turnV the shaft in one direction a latch to lock said shaft, a spring to turn the shaft inthe opposite direction, and an automatically-operated.V

means for disengaging the latch from thevr shaft, and permitting the spring to turn said shaft. Y 1' 2i. Abuttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, including an Y V upper needle and an under needle, a rotary shaft for reciprocating the upper needle, a rock-shaft for reciprocating said under needle, and mechanism operated from said rock- Y shaft for o'scillatin g said needles.

25. A buttonhole-sewing machine compris#YV n ing stitch-forming mechanism including an upper needle and an under needle, a rotaryV shaft for oscillating said needles, said mechneedles, a second rock-shaft having gears"V intermeshing with said pinions, and a rotary cam which is actuated by the first-said rock- Y shaft for imparting a rocking movement tov the second-said rock-shaft.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my signature in presence of tWo Witnesses.

GEORGE S. HILL. Witnesses:

M. B. MAY, C. F. BROWN.

150757YYY 

